This looks like a lot of fun

Wow… nice… thats looking very cool thx for sharing the tutorial with us

I thankfully for each tutorial I can get for AfferEffects

Nice Tutorial to study color correction for movies ….tks

awesome!

very nice

Good stuff. May be the best one to date I’ve seen here. Kudos.

Witam, pana Niezla robota ;D Znalazles niezle miejsce na zdjecia

You can put the original movie to download, will be more easy to follow the tutorial …

thats awesome, nice video… thx for the tutorial. Maybe a bit of turbolence field on the explosions?

Well, the preview itself wasn’t as good as the ones from all the other tutorials. Really bad music and bad sound, and the action isn’t very WW2 or James Ryan like. JR has a MUCH more harder and shakier cinematography.

Of course, thanks a bunch for your tutorial, but this isn’t James Ryan at all. I’m sorry..

Good tutorial…Thanks!!

What’s up with all of the non-constructive criticisms on all of these tutorials. The poster of this tutorial didn’t intend to teach you proper cinematography. Good tutorial. Thanks.

Welcome to the internet Fred.

Looks good. Thanks for sharing.

Amen@ Fred McCoy. This is AETuts… a place to learn techniques for AE work. But people just judge the end effect as a whole, and not what techniques are being applied that they can learn from. Sheesh!

@ Nico: A few of the sounds were terrible, but this is an awesome tutorial that we can all learn a lot from.

@Nico
Hehe, “create your own Priave Ryan” it’s just a fun name for AE tutorial
Next time I shall go to Omaha Beach to make it more Private Ryanish ;D

@Chacal
Yeah, I shall upload some raw footages but in couple of days. In 4 hours I’ll be off to my college meeting. Damn.

@Emin
Sounds like an idea!

@Paweł
Lubuskie najwspanialszym z województw

Thanks guys, just hope you like it!

Świetne! Może sam skorzystam

Awesome!! I agree with Fred, most of you people troll around creating any opportunity to bash on anything. Everyone wants to complain, yet no one steps up and and makes a difference.

very nice!!!!!!!!!!!!
we need more tutorials by technic of several
thank you!!!!!

That rocked! very nice colors and effects!

Similar in idea to this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRS9cpOMYv0&feature=related

Thanx for the tutorial

Very Cool
nice one
can’t wait the next day

We need more tutorials from Lloyd. If you want to find tutorials NO ONE will complain about…..look at his. The man is a master. So many of these have such limited appeal…that is what creates the complaints. Each one has something to teach, but so many of these just don’t get the views based on what they are really doing.

MORE TUTORIALS LLOYD!!!!

videocopilot tutorial

I really like the final outcome (bar the sounds), it’s great. And the techniques used are great too. Thanks.

Amazing tutorial… thanks for sharing!

@Billy
I understand you may don’t like tutorials hosted by anyone who’s not Lloyd. Never-the-less, I’ve found it quite offensive, when you write “MORE TUTORIALS LLOYD” under my work. I suggest using private message.

@liltsproductions
I don’t quite get this comment. Either way (if it’s positive or not) thank you ;D

All in all, thanks guys for the comments. Now, I know I need to find someone who will take care of sounds I use in my videos ; )

Add some more “throw up from excessive shake” to it and then it’s got 5 stars from me. I actually prefer it without the shake but if your going with the private ryan theme then it’s gotta have the shaky shaky.

Amazing!
Continue!

French are here

@ Michal J.
thx, and i learned a lot, =)

Michal…..that is actually quite inaccurate. There have been several tutorials posted by others that i have enjoyed and learned quite a bit from. Face it….this tutorial has limited appeal…and actually even the generic AE techniques are not that advanced and have been covered elsewhere.

I suggest that you put on a “thicker skin.” If you are going to post tutorials be ready for some criticism. Ironically enough, I didn’t even really criticize your work. Sorry you are so sensitive….but I can’t help that.

Oh god this is awesome and all you lamers just shut up and go somewhere else if you dont like it! Ahhh the trolls are coming!

For anyone interested there are probably more efficient steps to take in pre-production, principal photography and processing (or your DI), than going straight into the realm of visual effects.

The “Saving Private Ryan” look is a combination of low-shutter angle shooting (this is “controllable” on most pro-sumer camcorders) and a bleach-bypass to the physical negative in post. (Along with other alterations to the cameras and lenses that are beyond the common persons means.)

If you can afford to shoot 16mm or 35mm the DI is probably a safer place to apply a faux-bleach bypass than to your actual negative. And of course the shutter angle can be controlled physically on the camera.

For digital capture (excluding most digital cinema cameras) the shutter is electronic, but similar effects can be achieved through manipulating it. Try 90 degrees instead of the default 180. This will give you a crisper image, where particles in the air, rapid motion, etc. register far clearer than we are used to seeing.

However, be wary of “strobing” occurring at low shutter angles. Motion becomes sharper because less blurring is occurring, but you will reach a point where the illusion of fluid motion caused by showing 24 images simultaneously is lost, and thing will look stuttered.

Great job, Michal. What camera did you use, and what was your shutter angle? FPS?

Before you added the color correction, were we looking at the raw footage from the camera? Or had you manipulated it already to give it that SPR / Gladiator look in the motion?

Thanks so much! Great job.

Thanks for the tutorial Michal.

I mentioned this on another tutorial (the battleship one): try different modes other than ’screen’ or ‘add’ when dealing with smoke, fog and dirt hits.

Screen and Add brighten the pixels underneath them. Smoke and dust actually diffuse light making what’s underneath them a darker/harder to see.

perhaps try pulling luminance keys or using colour channels to get a mask and then merge/over the hits and fade them down.

@Mike
I’m definitely stoned. Thank you.

@David
I am currently satisfied owner of Sony HDR FX7. Shutter speed was 1/60 (default setting) and as NTSC is – FPS were 29,97.
As my AE does not work good with *.m2t, I used Sony Vegas Movie Studio to change those clips’ format to *.wmv. Same frame rate, reduced resolution to 1280×720 and set interpolated fields in blending mode. That was pretty much it. I loooooooooove my FX7 ;>

@Matt French
These are hints which I highly appreciate. Thank you as well.

I realize that this is not a cinematography website or tutorial, but for anyone seriously interested in achieving the popular war film aesthetic it may help to understand the camera. (Michal’s tutorial is useful, I am not suggesting otherwise – I simply recommend not going straight to post if this effect is your intention.)

I’d just to mention that “shutter speed” is not synonymous with “shutter angle.” I notice people might be using that term interchangeably.

Shutter speed refers to how fast a rotating shutter is spinning. (On a digital camera, ie. the FX7 mentioned above, there is no “shutter,” so we use this term to state how long each frame is exposed.)

Shutter angle refers to (on cinema cameras) the “shape” of the rotating disc shutter. So 180º refers to a shutter that is essentially half of a circle. A 90º shutter is three quarters of a circle, etc. On cinema cameras the shutter can often be physically altered (by removing the lens) it can be removed and replaced, or on newer cameras, the physical angle can be controlled as a setting.

Traditionally, while the shutter is closed, the film is being advanced by one frame. A tighter shutter angle thus exposes the film frame for a shorter period of time, allowing for less motion blur, yet the shutter spends more time closed, as the film is advanced and the shutter disc makes a complete rotation. This creates extremely sharp images, but images that are farther apart on the celluloid. (You’ll have to imagine this as a piece of film, regardless of your capture medium.)

Thus in cinematography we do not set a “shutter speed,” rather the speed is a result of the angle and the frame rate. Rather than doing the calculations, we reference a chart (You can find one in the American Cinematographers Manual.) A 90º shutter at 24fps is a shutter speed of 1/95.

On a camera where “shutter angle” is not actually controllable, either physically or through simulation, setting the “speed” at which each frame is exposed is about the closest you’ll get to achieving this effect. Referencing the aforementioned charts will give you an idea of what speed you should be looking for. If anyone would like a chart I can provide one.

(Some cameras, ie. the Panasonic HVX-200, Sony PMW-EX-1 will actually simulate shutter angle. I won’t get into that process though.)

[This image: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ad/Moviecam_schematic_animation.gif from the wikimedia commons illustrates a rotating disc shutter if you are unfamiliar with motion picture cameras.]

Mike.

Thanks for the details.

In the tracking shot that Michal took of the soldier running and hiding behind a rock, it certainly looked to me that he was using a non-standard shutter angle. That portion of the video, to me, looked very similar to SPR / Gladiator / Bourne, etc.

But, I’m still unsure if anything ’special’ was (or can even be) done with the shutter on the Sony FX7.

That’s why I was wondering if any other treatments were applied to the footage. Michal mentioned frame blending.. but I don’t think that’s what I’m seeing. O well!!

David

The shutter’s angle can not be changed (as no physical shutter exists.) The shutter speed (how long the camera will record each “frame”) can be changed on even the FX7 in manual mode (up to 1/10,000 – which is so extreme that you would probably have a hard time deciphering what’s actually going on.)

A shutter speed of 1/1728 would be achieved on a film camera at 24fps with a shutter angle of 5º, which is extremely narrow and an impossible angle at which to record fluid motion.

Video is of course different (the shutter speed is really a measure of how long the censor is allowed to generate charge for, and in turn record an image) so a shutter speed of 1/10,000 is possible to simulate. Be aware that you will need more light to expose the narrower your shutter gets (which is why this technique works particularly well for war films which are shot in daylight.)

I would advise running some tests and seeing what effects you can achieve.

Michal mentioned that he had his shutter at 1/60 which is default. (A shutter angle of approx. 180º.) To me the footage looks consistent with a 180º shutter all the way through. This is not necessarily a bad thing, but a matter of taste.

Frame blending in AE compensates for time remapping – it will interpolate missing data that wasn’t captured in the camera if your footage doesn’t match your composition.

Again, thanks for all the information, Mike. I’m sure lots of people are finding it very informative!

The only part I kinda disagree with is

“Michal mentioned that he had his shutter at 1/60 which is default. (A shutter angle of approx. 180º.) To me the footage looks consistent with a 180º shutter all the way through.”

Really? Maybe it’s just the encoding of the video.. but in the tracking shot where the soldier slid behind the rock, it didn’t look to me to be your standard smooth video. It looked very filmic, and similar to Gladiator/SPR/Bourne, etc.

Anyhow! Thanks!

david

This is the kind of effect i love. Its not in your face and obvious. It enhances the shot and unless your told its an effect you would think it was all real. Great tutorial and great effect. I wait eagerly or the next one.

Good tutorial but where can download this original images?

Very cool. Thanks for the tut!

Very good tut!

Can anybody explain how the color for the film is done?

To be Ashamed you have very good english!

I don’t like wars.

love it

It is the basics of all learning videos that should KICK our asses into using these programs and pushing our imaginations to create other piece of unique works.

If it wasn’t for a lot of these dudes who put these videos up on websites for us to learn from we would be crying the blues because you would have to go BUY them.

Believe me some of them are not all that great.

Any chance of getting the raw footage that you used for this. It makes for an easier follow along.

CHEERS & THANKS a BUNCH

MR HOLLYWOOOD

Very nice tutorial, but why still no have raw footage 4 us to easier to follow and learn ?…thz

Great tut,i like it, but where the source images, can u upload for us to follow, please !

Great tutorial thanks

Smoke particles! I can see the blobs man! Needs more and quicker dispersal methinks.

shot 3 times, took cover, removed clip, put same clip back…

I człowiek żyje w przeświadczeniu, że w Polsce nie da się zrobić dobrego filmu wojennego… dlaczego? Bo nawet jak ktoś potrafi to się chwali za granicą.
Bardzo ciekawy tutorial.

Thanks a lot sir .. It helped me a lot , thanks again.

I loved your tutorial! I will use it for my own WWII movie, Thank you very much!

One thing though, It would be a little better if I was able to download your footages, so i could start practising.

Thanks,

more thanks for this tutorial

thank verry good

WOW! Great work Mike. This just saved me thousands of dollars. Instead of hiring a pyrotechnic crew of three, and materials for squibs, I can hire an intern for cheap.